This definitive guide will help you on how to photograph the right way. Here are some tips and pointers that will help you improve your art presentations the next time you are photographing your 2-dimensional art.

  1. Photograph your art outside when it is cloudy or with an overcast sky. Indirect light will show your art better than any other light. I prefer that the artwork is facing north when this is done. Shooting inside with a flash is very difficult to do the right way. Outside is a “natural” light and will provide the best representation of your art. Just make sure that it is indirect light.
  2. Use a tripod or any other device (boxes, table or ladder) to hold the camera steady.
  3. Match the angle of the camera with the tilt of the art that is propped against the wall and make sure the camera is focused at the exact center of the art. Do not use a “wide angle” lens. If you have a zoom lens, then use that.
  4. If at all possible, when shooting, do not have your art framed or with glass in the frame. It is very hard to get away from any reflections in the glass. Also, if the art is frame-less this will help in post-production. If it is framed with glass or plastic make sure it is absolutely clean.
  5. Make sure that the flash is off the camera. If not, the flash will produce “hot spots” on your art and there is practically nothing that you will be able to do about this.
  6. When your art is leaning against the wall and you have focused your camera lens in the manner previously described, the thing to look out for are any distortions of the art and that your edges are straight and parallel. In the viewfinder match the edges of the art with the inside edges of the frame. If you cannot get it perfect, this can be taken care of in post-production.
  7. If your camera has different settings like SLR then try different shutter speeds and ISO settings. Try to bracket the camera’s settings from high to low and you should be able to produce an image somewhere in the middle of the settings that match the depth and color of your art. Slower shutter speeds will help with your colors. Experiment with the exposures and shutter speeds if you are doing this for the first time. Better yet, if you have a photographer friend see if they can help you with this.
  8. You will need photo editing software to crop the image in order to eliminate any distortions and lines that could not be made exactly parallel. If you do not have an editing program, 2 good free programs can be found at www.gimp.org or at www.sumopaint.com/app I also suggest that you eliminate the frame when you crop the image. Also, use the editing software to balance your colors and contrast. It will never be perfect, but you will be able to get pretty close representation of your art. Make sure that you are producing a jpeg image for the submission process as this is the accepted standard.

Overall, an image of your art will never be perfect but with trial, error, and experimentation you should be able to present your art in a better manner than you were previously doing. Remember, you are competing with other artists that are sweating over this aspect of presenting their art, as they know how important it is. It is time for you to take your art presentation to a higher level. Good luck!

Photographing 3 Dimensional Art the Right Way

If an artist were to follow these ideas when recording and presenting their 3D art, their chances of being accepted will surely increase.

At the end of this post is a link to a more detailed PDF article on this subject, along with additional ideas on how to photograph any 2D art.

This information was gratefully provided by the Visual Resources Center, of the University of Colorado, Boulder, Department of Art & Art History

  1. Positioning Your Art

For smaller sculptural work, place your art on a flat surface with a neutral colored background

Don’t place your art too close to the background, give it some space

If your art is small enough and you want even diffused light, use a tabletop soft-box

If using soft-box lighting, place the lights at 45-degree angles from the art, halfway between the art and the camera, this will give even, diffused light

Then move around one of the lights to start creating shadows, once you have reached the desired shadow leave the light and begin shooting

Some pieces of art need three lights to create dimensionality.  If needed, add a third light.

  1. Camera Settings

Set the ISO to 100 (this will reduce “noise” in the digital image)

Set the camera to “aperture priority” (this will keep the aperture locked)

Set the aperture to f/8 or higher (this will put more of the image in focus)

Set the white balance if shooting in jpeg or tiff (Tungsten, Fluorescent, Daylight, Custom, etc.)

Set the camera to timer mode (this is to minimize camera shake)

  1. Setting up the Camera

Set up the camera on a tripod, make sure the tripod and camera are both level

Place the tripod at a distance where the art fills almost the entire view, yet you are not too close to get distortions

Shooting the work

Get the entire image in the frame with a bit of background (you will crop it out later)

Focus your image (manually or with autofocus)

Press the button and let go of the camera, the timer function will open the shutter and take the shot

Bracket your shot by going up and down one stop with the shutter speed

Leave the tripod in place in case you need to come back and shoot more images

Make sure to capture your piece from multiple angles if needed

Image editing in Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, Gimp, etc.

  1. Post Processing

Open an image in Photoshop and set the white balance

Save as a tiff

Crop the image

Correct any distortions if necessary

Adjust color and contrast if necessary

Zoom to 100% to check for imperfections

If you have the storage space, save both your tiff and RAW images

You can now make derivative jpegs from your tiff to match the requirements that are needed

  1. Tips for Photographing Installations

Shooting installations require capturing full views of the work as well as details.

Try shooting your full views with a wide-angle lens.  Remember that distortions can occur at the edges of a wide-angle lens, so zoom in a bit with the lens when shooting.  Always look at the image on the view-finder to see if you have noticeable distortions.

To capture the installation in focus you must keep your aperture closed down quite a bit.  Try using only f/16 or higher and see what your results look like.  Because you are using such a small aperture and lighting in installations are very often dim, a tripod is an absolute necessity.

Make sure to get shots from a variety of angles and positions.  When people walk through or into an installation they often can experience the art from many different views, make sure your photos can document that aspect of an installation.

Be very aware of the backgrounds that may exist within the space of the installation.  Make sure to avoid elements that may distract from the piece, or be sure to include them if they are part of the piece.

While most installations can be shot with the current lighting, sometimes adding additional light can be helpful to highlight a certain area. If you are supplementing the current light with a lighting-kit, be sure to position the kit so it cannot be seen in the photo.

Make sure to get lots of detail shots of the installation, and be sure to still use a tripod.

  1. Tips for Photographing Outdoor Buildings or Public Art

It is best to shoot at dusk or dawn when photographing buildings or outdoor sculpture/public art.  There are better lighting and fewer people to get in your shot.  Only photograph during the day if there is a very specific lighting reason to do so, for example, shadows are an important element.

Since you will be shooting in a low light situation (dusk or dawn), a tripod is absolutely necessary.

Be sure to get multiple shots from many angles.  And be very aware of the background of your shot.  Moving to the side one or two feet may give you a significantly better shot.

For larger building or public art pieces, you may need a wide angle lens.  Be sure to watch out for distortion at the edges of the frame.  Zoom in a bit or stand closer to your subject and it may help with the corner distortions.

Your depth of field can vary quite a bit with outdoor photography.  For large buildings where it is important to get the entire structure in focus, use a small aperture (f/22).  For isolated sculptures where you want just the sculpture in focus and the background blurry use a larger aperture (f/5.6).

While almost all public buildings are legal to photograph, a few are not (especially in foreign countries).  Do some research to find out if you are allowed to photograph your site of interest.

Be sure to bracket your shots.  You may not get another chance to come back and shoot the subject again so be sure to have a variety of exposures from each shot to choose from later.

Also, remember to take a shot of any kind of plaque or ID that may be posted near the building or art to help you identify it later.

Many thanks to the Visual Resources Center, University of Colorado Boulder, Department of Art and Art History for proving this wonderful information.  Here is a link of a PDF file which provides more detailed information along with diagrams How to Photograph Art – University of Colorado Boulder

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